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Ndunderi, pronounced with something of a nasal quality as "dune - der - ee," are a little known but most satisfying delight from the bay of Naples. If you have an Italian American background, chances are that your ancestors came from Southern Italy. If you remember hearing your grandparents or great grandparents talk you know that they did not “speak” Italian, they “sang” it. Italian phrases that I remember from childhood are not distinguishable as individual words. They were a flow of indistinguishable sounds, some highly musical, others peppery expletives. I recall the phrase, “mah’lay-bonz” which I think meant; “You’re a pain in the stomach. “ Similar to this phrase was “doo-zee-pots,” which now, as an adult who speaks Italian, I have come to know is a corruption of “Tu sei pozzo,” “You are crazy.” There was also the phrase spoken to babies, “Doo – zee – pee-zhad,” which meant, “You wet your diaper.” There was also the call “Aye … why-yoh,” that was addressed to any young man. I still have no idea what that means. One of the most curious aspects of the Southern Italian dialect is the way it doubles consonants at the beginning of words. This consonant doubling is not just a question of spelling. The double consonant is characteristic of how Southern Italians sing their language. Wikipedia offers a very interesting look at the Neapolitan dialect. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neapolitan_dialect . And here is a word and a food from the Amalfi area that offers a perfect example of the Neapolitan dialect and food: “ndunderi. “ I came across the recipe for ndunderi (doon-der-ee) when I was researching gnocchi and cavatelli. “Ndunderi” were not something I had ever heard of. Even though these gnocchi like pasta come from the Naples region, I don’t think this variety of dumpling ever came to America. I have never heard the word among Italian American friends nor have I ever seen it on the menus of any Italian American restaurant. In fact, I have never even heard of them in Italy. Now I must also say that as a child I really don’t even recall the word “gnocchi.” We had what we called “gah-vah-deels,” that is, “cavatelli.” They were made with either potato or ricotta. Only later did I learn that, at least in theory, cavatelli are longer and thinner and made with ricotta, while gnocchi are somewhat stumpy and made with potato.
Below are two images that I found online. I've credited them.
While the “gah-vah-deels,” were delightful and filling and a most satisfying dish, they were also extremely dense and heavy. And the old time gravy did little to lighten them. Because of their "weight condition," they were comically referred to as 'lead sinkers." (A lead sinker is a fishing term. It refers to the pendant shaped weight that is attached to the end of your fishing line to keep the hook and bait from floating. I knotted many of them when I worked on the fishing pier in front of our house.)
Lead Sinkers
 From Angling Fish
They look just like gnocchi.
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“Gah-vah-deels” were often a summer dish. Our summer home was right on the beach in New Jersey. When we came in from the beach with the smell of the salt still in our noses, after acold outdoor shower and a fresh t-shirt and shorts, the “gah-vah-deels” were an ecstatic delight. Perhaps because of the sun and the salt and the sea all of our senses were heightened. But why did we never have “ndunderi?” That this pasta went missing is all the more curious to me since one of my grandparents came from Sorrento and another from Torre Annunziata, two towns of the Amalfi coast where ndunderi come from. Yet we never had “ndunderi, or ever heard of them.
According to most Italian sites, ndunderi are a most ancient form of pasta and are even recognized as such by UNESCO. In Roman times, they were made from ground faro or other grains. The liquid was originally sour milk. Ndunderi as they are known today, at least in most recipes, are made from a combination of semolina and regular white flour. For the liquid, today’s ndunderi use ricotta cheese and eggs. According to one Italian site, “Virtual Sorrento,” http://www.virtualsorrento.com/it/cucina/ndunderi.htm, the pre-columbian version of ndunderi were rather large dumplings. They were garnished with various spices and olive oil. With the discovery of America and the introduction of the tomato, the dumpling became smaller and tomato sauce came into play. The problem I encounter with ndundri is the proportions of semolina and regular flour. From the many tests I have made, too much semolina does not work at all. Too much flour and you may as well make gnocchi. The problem is compounded by the flour and eggs and ricotta that you may use. Each of these ingredients have a different dry/moisture level. So, for ndunderi you have to really work from sense and feel. Virtual Sorrento old time version
 Old time Ndunderi
In the curious way things happen simultaneously, I happened to see an episode of David Rocco’s Amalfi Getaway. What was the featured item on that show but ndunderi? The significant variation in the recipe he presented was the sauce. David Rocco’s recipe featured a sauce of lemon flavored cream. At first this confused me, since it seemed that the lemon juice would curdle the cream. But I figured that if I added the lemon juice first to the melted butter, and then slowly added the cream, it might work. And it did. What’s more, as my daughter pointed out, this lemon sauce would be a delight on baked fish and also on asparagus.
The Amalfi Coast
Image from:
http://www.angelsfortravellers.com/aft/site/it/missionDetails?id=20 |
The Preparation
What you need
What you need
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Equipment
Large pot for pasta Mixer or food processor Spider Wooden spoon Pastry scraper Gnocchi paddle or fork Cookie tray Tea towel |
Ingredients
Semolina: 1 cup
Flour: 2 cups - on hand. Not all will be used. Ricotta: 1 pound (impastata if you can find it) Eggs: 2 (the egg here is a double yolk) Grated Parmesan: 1 cup Nutmeg: 2 teaspoons grated Salt Water - some on the side (If you can't find semolina, you can use regular flour.) |
Getting started
Semolina and ricotta
In a mixing bowl or food processor add the semolina, one the cheeses, the nutmeg, the salt and only one cup of the flour.
With a fork, blend all the dry ingredients. Stir up from the bottom. |
Eggs and ricotta
With a fork or in a food processor, blend the eggs, cheese and dry ingredients.
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White flour
Go easy here.
Continue to add only as much whit flour as you need to hold the pasta together. |
Kneed by hand to finish
Kneed the dough by hand. It should now start forming a ball.
Only add as much flour as you need to form the ball. If it feels dry or grainy sprinkle in a little water. |
Chill the dough
Divide the dough (optional)
and wrap in plastic. Chill for at least two hours or over night. |
The rolls
Slice the dough into workable pieces. Use the palms of you hands to form long rolls.
Slice the rolls down into fairly large one inch pieces. These are bigger than gnocchi. |
Forming the dimple
Place each piece against the back of a gnocchi paddle, the back of a fork, or a cheese grater.
Press your thumb into the center to form the dimple. |
Roll the ridges
Now flip your thumb to the top and roll it down and off the paddle. Be careful not to flatten the dimple.
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Set out
Lay a tea towel on a cookie tray to hold the pasta while waiting for the salted water to boil.
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Lower into salted boiling water
When the water comes to a rapid boil, gently turn out the dnunderi. They will sink so you need to stir them so that they do not stick.
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When are they done?
Once the ndunderi begin to float, wait another minute.
Using a spider transfer them directly into the sauce. |
Two Sauces: Tomato Sausage / Lemon Cream
Make the sauces in advance
Make the sauces in advance
Tomato Ingredients
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Sausage
Using a spoon and fork break down the pork as you brown it in the olive oil.
When the meat has browned, add the chopped garlic. |
Tomatoes
Crush the tomatoes coarsely by hand and add them to the pan.
Simmer for 30 minutes. |
Add the ndunderi
Add the pasta directly to the sauce. Add a little touch of the pasta water.
Let them simmer for about 7 minutes. |
Lemon cream ingredients
Two lemons
Pint of heavy cream Stick of butter |
Butter and lemon
Melt the butter.
Grate them rind of both lemons into the butter. Squeeze the juice of both lemons into the butter. Let this simmer for a minute or two. |
Cream
Slowly add the heavy cream.
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Add the pasta
Add the pasta directly to the lemon cream. Let the pasta simmer for about 7 minutes.
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Plate and Serve
