When I was a kid the next door neighbors were tailors. They were straight from Italy. The father of the family always told the story of how when he first came to America he went into a small place for something to eat. Since he spoke no English and knew nothing of the money, and being somewhat frightened he simply handed the waiter the first dollar he had in his pocket. To my neighbor’s astonishment the waiter gave him change. This was America! In Italy they would have taken the dollar and demanded more from a stranger. Our neighbor the tailor and his wife had a small but lush and abundant summer garden: tomatoes, beans, escarole, Swiss chard. Armed with her kitchen knife, the tailor’s wife reaped her greens and always gave some to us. My father loved beans and greens. Sometimes we had them with sausages. My father’s favorite was escarole and beans. (In the Italian American dialect it’s called “shka – roll and beans.”
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But any number of leafy greens is possible. While escarole may be the most common, Swiss chard, kale, broccoli rape (broccoli rob) or even collards can work just as well and can vary the taste. The collards underscore the way foods unite people. Just as poor Italians mixed inexpensive pork cuts with beans and greens so too did poor Blacks and Whites in America’s South. The recipe I show here uses Swiss Chard, cannellini beans and Cajun sausage but any substitution is possible. The end result, served with a wonderful Italian or French bread is nothing less than rich, savory comfort food. If you are vegetarian, leave out the meat and you still have substantial dish.
Remember too that greens and beans go well with any substantial macaroni pasta. |
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What you need
What you need
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The Mise-en-place: Getting it all together
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The Mise-en-place: Getting it all together
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On the stove
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On the stove
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