Zuppa Bianca, White Soup

Zuppa Bianca (white soup) has no direct history in my family’s cooking traditions but it is not without some Italian American background. Zuppa Bianca is my own creation and derives from several recipes from my childhood: recipes that included beans and greens and egg. For this recipe I even included a Greek element that shares a place in the Southern Italian kitchen, lemon. The parents of zuppa bianca are the classic “straciatella” (what Americans call “Italian Wedding Soup) and a standard Friday night meatless dish, “escarole and beans.” Then, to finish the soup I thought to add the juice of a lemon and so link this dish to a Greek cousin, “avgolemono,” (αυγολέμονο). After all, lemon in cooking is fundamental to the Southern Italian kitchen.

Straciatella

Zuppa Bianca may not date to the past century, but it is still Italian American, if for no other reason than that I am Italian American. The Italian American kitchen is not fixed at a certain point in history. It is a living expression that continues to evolve. Just as our ancestors created new foods when they arrived in America there is no reason why our generation cannot create new recipes of our own. Zuppa bianca derives from the past but is a new creation that I think can stand on its own.To begin with zuppa bianca uses more than one green. Then too, the essential characteristic of this soup is its velvety texture achieved by tempering the eggs rather than drizzling them as in a straciatella. Achieving the velvety texture is not always easy. I have failed on more than one occasion. Yet, even in failure, the soup is quite tasty and most satisfying, a wonderful winter comfort food.

The greens in this soup may be from any number of winter vegetables but I would use some form of cabbage as the base. Common green cabbage would be the first choice but you might also consider Napa or even any of the bok choi. For the leafy greens, escarole or spinach would acknowledge the greens of the traditional straciatella, but Swiss chard, kale or broccoli rape would add a different dimension. Use at least two or even three of them. Be sure to chop the greens into fine strips.

The texture of zuppa Bianca is somewhat dense and owes its consistency to three ingredients: the potatoes, the beans and the whipped eggs. For the beans, a good brand of cannellini or even garbanzo (also called chick peas or ceci) suits the bill. While ceci would be the bean that I grew up with they can be very dry and may not appeal to many, especially not to children. Whichever you select, the white beans are essential. Canned beans are perfectly fine. But if you have the time use dried. Be careful not to add salt to your stock before adding the beans. Do not salt until just before serving.

The subtle trick of zuppa bianca is to create a velvety cream broth with the whipped eggs. The way of preparing the eggs also distinguishes this soup from the traditional straciatella. For straciatella, you wisk the eggs and drizzle them into the soup. The drizzle creates the straccie, the “rags” that give the soup its name. For Zuppa Bianca the eggs need to be tempered before adding them to the soup. Tis is the tricky step that doesn’t always work. But it’s worth experimenting. Whisk the eggs in an ample bowl. Then, while continuing to whisk, very slowly add several ladles of the soup broth a bit at a time. This mixture will create a velvety liquid. Turn the liquid back into the soup. You should have a smooth and creamy soup base enriched with potatoes, beans and delicate strands of greens.

What you need

Equipment
A heavy soup pot
Sautee pan
Sharp knife
Ladle

Ingredients

Chicken stock or vegetable stock
1/2 cabbage
Swiss chard or other leafy green
Leek
Onion
Garlic
Cannelini beans
Potatoes (one large baking or three small gold)
2 or 3 eggs
One lemon

Mise-en-place, Getting everything together.
The most important rule of cooking is to have all your ingredients cut and prepared in advance. The second is "clean as you go."

Leeks

Discard the upper greens. (Do not put them in the garbage disposal they will clog.)
Wash the base of sand and finely dice.
Set aside.

Garlic

Dice and crush the garlic and set aside.

Cabbage

Slice the cabbage into thin strips and set aside.

Onion

Dice the onion and set aside.

Swiss chard

Chiffonade the Swiss chard: discard the hard base stem and finely slice the greens. Set aside.

Potatoes

Finely dice the potatoes and set them aside.

Everything together

All your fresh elements are ready:
Cabbage
Swiss Chard
Onion
Potato
Leek

On the stove

Leeks, onion and garlic

Heat the chicken or vegetable stock in a heavy soup pot. In the meantime sautee the leeks, onions and garlic until they wilt.

Greens and potatoes

Add the greens and potatoes to the stock.
Let this simmer for about 30 minutes.
Do not add salt yet.

Egg

While the soup is finishing whisk two or three eggs in a bowl.

Eggs to the soup

While stirring the soup gradually add the tempered eggs. This is the difficult part and it doesn't always work. Even if the eggs make threads, you still have a very good soup.

Add to the stock

When the onion, leeks and garlic have wilted, add them to the stock and bring to a slow boil.

Beans

After about 30 minutes add the beans.
Simmer another ten minutes.
Do not salt until just before serving.

Tempering

Gradually add some of the soup broth to the eggs until you have added about two cups.
You should have a nice, thick liquid without "shreds."

Lemon

The final touch is the lemon. Heat the lemon in the microwave for about one minute. This will give more juice. Squeeze the lemon juice into the soup.