Sardines in Scabece

Sardines in scabece (Skah-BAY- chay) was not something I knew growing up. While in our kitchen we certainly had wonderfully crispy fried smelts or whiting steeped in lemon and parsley, I do not recall having sardines in anything other than a can. Perhaps, in those days, before jet plane transport of fresh sardines they were simply not available.I came upon this recipe for fried fresh sardines in scabece marinade while researching methods for preparing the Christmas Eve Fish Dinner.

Darigo's 9th Street Philadelphia

The first problem with carrying out the recipe is finding fresh sardines. Fresh sardines are not the stuff of your local chain store. In Philadelphia we have 9th street, the source of everything edible. When I saw fresh, cleaned Sardines on the ice counter at Darigo’s I snapped up a few pounds.

Sikbag

Scabece is a method of marinating seafood. The method is most common in Sicily and in Venice. The word “scabece” derives from the Arabic “sikbâg”, and refers to preparing a recipe with a sweet and sour finish. The website, “Chef Yusuf” offers a wonderful version of sikbag with lamb. Sikbag calls for marinating the primary ingredient which has already been fried in acidic liquids such as lemon juice or vinegar and dressing it with raisins. The Arab influence in Mediterranean cooking is ancient and profound. The moment you see ingredients like raisins or dates or mint, you can almost immediately be sure of a recipe’s Eastern origin. Some scabece recipes also call for cloves and other spices: further evidence of Saracen origins. Later Christianized versions of scabece used wine in the marinade, an ingredient that Muslims would have avoided since alcohol is forbidden in Islam.

In the north of Italy, particularly in Venice, this fish marinade is called “saor” a term that is a corruption of the word “savore,” (savor or taste). That this recipe is also found in Venice testifies again to its Eastern origins. The Venetians, after all, while not occupied by the Saracens, were the great importer to Europe of their Eastern foods, spices and fabrics. Then too, how can we forget, Othello, the More of Venice.

Sardine in Saor: Jewish Italian Sardines

Sardines in “saor” are also a standard of the Jewish Italian Food Table. Scabece is not limited to Italy. In Spanish the method is called Escabeche. In South American, the preparation of fish in acidic liquids is called “ceviche,” a word that may derive from the same Arabic source. It’s also worth noting that a scabece method is not reserved to sardines.You can also apply the marinade to mackerel and to tuna. Scabece is served room temperature.If you refrigerate it, be sure to leave it out for at least an hour before plating.The scabece works as a wonderful appetizer. As a buffet hors’ d’oeuvre cut the sardines into smaller pieces and place on bread and olive oil. Scabece also works very well when warmed, crushed and stirred into spaghetti.For the spaghetti you may want to add some hot pepper flakes and some olive oil.

The unusual aspect of this marinade is that it has two stages. The fish is first set in a bath of lemon juice. The sardines are then coated with flour (in Sicily they would use cecci (garbanzo) flour and then fried. Only after frying are they set with the onion, raisin and vinegar/wine marinade. As the final touch to the scabece the traditional Sicilian version calls for mint. I would also suggest using a sprinkle of pignoli nuts and even some crushed walnuts. Capers add a salty taste to parry the sweet raisins. You might add any other dried fruit of your liking.

In a different application, scabece marinade works wonders with any kind of grilled vegetable, especially zucchini, eggplant or cauliflower. Scabece may not have been traditional in the Italian American families I know, but it’s a recipe from the old country that needs to be restored and preserved.

Scabece with spaghetti

If you have left overs from this preparation, you might try them with spaghetti.
Crush the sardines scabece and sprinkle in enough bread crumbs to absorb the marinade. Add some red pepper flakes for an added dimension.
Stir into hot spaghetti,

The illustrated recipe
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Equipment

Glass or other non reactive baking pan
Frying pan
Cookie tray
Spatula
Aluminum foil
Paper towels
Another pan that fits over the baking pan to act as a weight

Ingredients

Fresh sardines that have been cleaned.
Lemons
Raisins
Onions
White wine
Vinegar (white or red)
Rosemary
Flour - preferably cicci (garbanzo) but regular flour is fine.
Chopped parsley.
Salt and pepper.
Options: capers, pignoli nuts, walnuts, chopped dates, chopped figs, any dried fruit. (Try something exotic like dried papaya.)

Preparation

Lemon marinade

Soak the sardines in ample lemon juice for about thirty minutes.

Onions

In the meantime, slice down the onions and set them aside.
The onions can be diced or sliced. Slicing makes a nicer appearance.

Flour

Add salt, pepper and chopped parsley to the flour. Dredge the sardines in the flour and set them out on a cookie tray.

Frying

Fry the sardines. Fry only a few at a time. Do not let the oil get too hot. The sardines are thin and cook quickly.
Set them to drain on paper towels.
Leave them to the side while you prepare the scabece.

Onions and raisins

Sauter the onions and raisins in olive oil.
Let the onions wilt but do not brown them.

Wine and vinegar

Add the wine and vinegar and let them reduce to about half.

Add capers, pine nuts and any other finish you fancy.

Taste for balance.

Layering

Layer the sardine filets in a glas baking dish and alter them with the scabece.

Pour all the remaing liquid over all.

Marinating

Cover the dish with aluminum foil and set another weighted dish on top. Here, I'm using a full sugar bowl for the weight.
You can serve the sardines in about an hour. They will be better if they marinate for several days in the refrigerator. Be sure to remove them at least an hour before serving.