Pigs' Feet

Pig's feet were once a main player in the Italian American Kitchen. I cannot say that I have seen them at all in any kitchen these days. Under the influence of such writers as Michael Pollan I have given a good but of thought on using the whole animal. With the benefits of true butchers that you can find on 9th Street in Philadelphia and the proximity of farms with naturally raised animals such things as sweetbreads and pig’s feet are accessible.My visit today to Bobolink Farm in Milford, NJ offered several pork products including pig’s feet and their own scrapple. Is there anything from the pig that us not useful? Even their hair becomes bristle brushes.The Italians say, “Del maiale non si butta via niente,” “of the pig nothing is cast away.” Of course the Pennsylvania Dutch note that scrapple is “everything in the pig but the squeal.”

I have been experimenting with pig’s feet in all kinds of variations.None of them ever seemed to render a dish that was worth the prep time or the actual process of eating the small amount of meat embedded in all those bones. Still, the memory of my Italian aunts at the table, their pudgy little fingers picking away at the pigs feet replays in my head. Unlike most other recipes in the kitchen, this is one I don’t recall seeing prepared. Perhaps because the prep-work itself is minimal. The time with pig's feet is the braising.

Researching pig’s feet on American Google and on Google Italy offered few ideas. Most of the recipes that I found, including a few Chinese ideas, called for boiling the trotters in water for several hours. Even a few Italian sites called for boiling in water. In some cases the pig’s feet went into two boils with the water from the first boil being discarded. Boiling the feet in water just didn’t seem right to me. I know of no Philadelphia Italian who would ever boil anything in plain water. The long cooking is essential, but not in water. I would do the feet in a very slow braise of red wine, carrots, onions and tomatoes. I also find on Google.it a few versions of pig's feet served with beans. Beans seemed a good addition. If I had used dry beans I would have put them in the braise from the start and let them go the whole time. I was using canned beans and so I put them in only at the last hour. I also thought it would be a good idea to brown the pig’s feet in a bit of olive oil before adding the wine. A very heavy Dutch oven or iron kettle is essential for this recipe. The prep is very quick and easy.The braising takes four hours in a very slow over of 250 degrees. The feet are velvety and soft. The sauce is creamy and sweet.The pig’s feet need a nice loaf of Italian bread.The dish also makes a wonderful ragu to accompany a hearty pasta

What you need

Equipment
Dutch oven or cast iron pot
Sharp knife

Ingredients

Pig's feet
Crushed tomatoes (Cento San Marzano)
Onions
Carrots
Cannellini beans
Red wine
Olive oil (not shown)
Salt and pepper

The Mise en place, getting things together

Cut down the feet

Have the butcher cut down the feet or do it yourself.
Set aside.

Onions

Coarsely chop the onions and set them aside.

Carrots

Coarsely chop the carrots.
Set them aside.

Prep Complete

All your prep work is done.
Set the onions, carrots, crushed tomatoes on the side to have them ready

Preheat the oven to 400.

Optional

Brown the pigs feet in a bit of olive oil.
Remove the feet from the pot and use the oil or the onions and carrots.

Onions and carrots

Sautée the onions and carrots until the onions begin to clarify.

The wine

Crushed tomatoes

Add the crushed tomatoes.
Keep the pot on the flame until it begins to bubble.

In the oven

High heat:
When the the braise comes to boil cover the kettle and set in a 400 degree oven for fifteen minutes.
Lower heat:
Lower the oven 250.
Let the feet braise for four hours.

Cannellini

After about three hours add the canned beans.

(If you use dried beans add them at the beginning.)